A return to the roots was a predominant feature of designers’ works this season at Lakme Fashion Week, as was moulding Indian traditional silhouettes with international trends such as bell sleeves, off-shoulders, subtle metallics and checks.
May the festivities stay with us as we wrap up with a quick peek at the best picks with Part II of our LFW series. Catch Part I here.
Divya Sheth presented subtle lotus prints against a backdrop of black on gold, midnight blue and rose pink in a collection titled ‘Nijmandir’. Inspired by pichwai paintings of Lord Krishna, each ensemble was a look of devotion that will find its place in many a bridal trousseau. Silhouettes were inspired by Indian kurtas, anarkalis and lehengas but leaned towards western classic bell sleeves, cloaks and robes.
Ones who love to revive traditional Indian textiles and crafts, Vrisa showcased a visual treat titled ‘Char Chinar’. Inspired by the colour palette of a Kashmiri evening, the garments featured delicate Kashmiri embroidery in autumnal hues on Persian and ikat fabrics. We love the billowy silhouettes with peek-a-boo, colour-pop effect and the clash of velvet on silk.
Payal Singhal’s collection titled ‘Pakizah’ was an ethereal take on Middle eastern architecture minus the ornate representations. Scalloped hems, delicate florals and intricate mesh embroidery dominated against a backdrop of neutral hues and black.
A return to brocade is an international trend and Gaurang’s collection was a celebration of it too. The collection, titled ‘Vrindavan’ was an ode to the Krishna Leela, in a riot of colours and weaves like patolas, jamdani and Benarasi. Saris draped in traditional, regional variations and kurta shararas hit the runway for the bride as did geometric and floral print angarakhas and sherwanis for the groom.
The lion motif took centre-stage in Payal Khandwala’s debut bridal showcase titled ‘The New Emperor’. That’s right, this collection celebrates the bride as king in monochrome, brocade metallics and androgynous layering. Featuring capes, long sleeves, crossover dresses, the trench coat, signature statement pendants and heritage weaves, this collection was a kaleidoscope of East meets West.
SHANTANU & NIKHIL
This designer duo’s collection paid homage to warriors and the armed forces in a presentation aptly titled ‘The Matador’s Mistress’. From puffed and flared sleeved ball gowns to matador-inspired, one-shoulder jumpsuits, we had an eclectic amalgamation of the season’s best trends on offer. A constant feature was the corset style dress and lace in a goth update. For the men, there were the staple kurta, pyjama and occasional dhoti with military style coats and flowing capes.
In a collection titled ‘Arcadia’, Ridhi Mehra showcased flower power in subtle pinks and sheers with floral prints and embellished golden flowers on a backdrop of red and navy. One to marry modern with traditional, silhouettes featured anarkalis with plunging necklines, cape lehengas and the androgynous kurta sets.
‘The Wedding Chronicle’ chronicles the modern bride at her playful, fun-loving best. Featuring ensembles in exuberant yellows, pinks, red and fresh mint blue, the designer paid homage to the off-shoulder and itsy-bitsy bralette peppered in sequinned sparkles. These were matched with floral prints and her trademark voluminous lehengas with zardozi embellishments.
In a collection titled ‘Itvara’ inspired by nomads and wanderers, Jade presented a carefree style on the runway. The ensembles came in handloom cottons and silks with traditional handicrafts in silhouettes that ranged from block-printed chevron dhoti-pants to banarasi jacquard skirts and dresses. Maroons, midnight blues and black were the colours of choice, presented in a tribal chic aesthetic.
Sonam and Paras Modi left everyone raptured with a collection inspired by floor art and street architecture from Montparnasse, Paris, titled ‘Mon Passé’. Ensembles in a palette of bottle green, midnight blue, ruby red and beige featured traditional Indian silhouettes. Floor-sweeping lehengas, edgy gowns, and kurtas paired with high waisted pants were highlights. Each ensemble featured geometric patterns in brocade gold on silks and other fabrics.
One to allow the stronger sex to play dress up, Kunal Rawal’s ‘Role Play’ has what the modern groom needs. With his trademark short kurtas, sherwanis, bandis, jackets and dhoti salwars, this collection carried just the necessary quirk — mango yellow kurtas paired with maroon heart motif jackets and geometric print roses, marigolds and more marigold, we have everything for the redefined man. Elaborate quilting, knots and threadwork were on display too.
In a collection titled ‘Illuminate’, Sabyasachi’s timeless touch ran throughtout. With silhouettes from minis, maxis, haute dhotis to his signature lehengas and saris, the designer chose crystal, zardozi threadwork and stone embellishment, alongside Kashmiri and Persian tilla embroidery. In hues ranging from dusty and smoky green to jewel toned reds, the collection was a capsule of everything Sabyasachi, illuminated.