It’s that time of the year again — when wardrobes call for an update as Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2019 bestows us with looks that are going to rule the season ahead. We return from the F-Row with a roster of designers that are a must-add to your collection… and you can shop them straight off-the-runway on www.aashniandco.com! Here’s a closer look at the collections we heart this season.
Who: Anita DongreWhat: Dongre’s ‘A Summer Reverie’ was replete with easy-breezy, languid silhouettes featuring floral patterns in hues of yellow, apricot, sea foam, surf blue, onion pink, blush, pistachio green, marigold yellow, misty blue, champagne pink and lavender. Lightweight lehengas, maxi dresses, jumpsuits, salwar suits and crop tops paired with skirts clearly embodied the spirit of summer. Shop here.
Who: Anushree ReddyWhat: Princess of pastels, Anushree Reddy, created her collection ‘Atirah’ for the feminine, modern-day bride who is confident, graceful and strong. Comfort was the main focus, enhanced through royal and luxe fabrics, such as pure silk, hand-woven cotton and organza in romantic shades of frosted almond, apricot and celestial blue. Intricate thread-work infused with zardozi, gathered lehengas and gowns, and menswear presented wardrobe options every contemporary bride and groom would covet.
Who: Gaurav GuptaWhat: ‘The (Un)folding’ showcased Gupta’s signature gravity-defying origami folds and sculptural constructions through the use of delicate hand-embroidered chikankari, zardozi, and Benarasi brocade. His first-ever tryst with chikankari did not disappoint — the intricate thread work met gold and bugle bead embroidery, feathers and 3D floral accents for women and metallic spikes on lapels, shoulders and cuffs for men. The designer struck a fine balance between demure and brazen with his line of dresses, pantsuits, sari-gowns, lehengas, and evening wear.
Who: Kunal RawalWhat: Rawal’s collaboration with boAt, ‘Future Past,’ fused Neo-traditionalism with modernism. The line boasted of a fresh take on bandhani techniques through the use of cubes and checks instead of the staple dotted designs. As always, the designer added a contemporary twist to heritage silhouettes – the bandhgala made an appearance in a wide range of options, layered over shirts and kurtas, and the sherwanis came with curved hemlines, worn with fitted ankle-length trousers. His trademark style of working with motifs was perfectly captured on luxurious traditional handloom fabrics.
Who: Payal SinghalWhat: ‘Qo’shilish,’ which translates to ‘confluence’ in Uzbek, was Singhal’s attempt at tracing the Silk Route, beginning in Samarkand, through Uzbekistan and ending in Benares. The nuanced blend of influences from medieval-gothic European architecture and traditional and tribal Indian folk art shone through contemporary saris and Renaissance tops in fabrics such as crepe, velvet, georgette, silk, organza, brocade and tissue. Innovative, experimental silhouettes such as Nizami shararas and short lean kurtas made a statement on the runway in dreamy hues of moss green, periwinkle blue and dusty rose.
Who: Raghavendra RathoreWhat: ‘An Ode to the Bandhgala’ featured slick cuts and modern silhouettes in a dark, neutral colour palette comprising blue, black, ivory and charcoal grey. Rathore offered various iterations of the bandhgala jacket for both men and women, with bolder, more masculine designs for the former. Predominantly designed in silk and natural yarn, the line paid tribute to artisans and celebrated the Jodhpuri bandhgala, reinvented and redefined with an edgy yet classic charm.
Who: Rohit BalWhat: Bal recreated his Kashmiri roots through ‘Guldastah’. Intricate Kashmiri embroidery over sustainable fabrics, comprising cotton, silk blends, chanderi, silk organza, silk and velvet, made for an opulent, graceful collection. Larger-than-life motifs of sunflowers, poppies, tulips, and peonies were set against the couturier’s signature ivory and black pieces. Floor-grazing kurtas, majestic jackets, regal capes, quilted boleros, mini kalidar kurtis and fluted-sleeve corset blouses were the highlights of this magnificent repertoire.
Who: Saaksha and KinniWhat: The ‘Nomada’ collection showcased archetypal summer silhouettes with strong bohemian vibes. Extensive micro pleating and abstract floral and checkered prints were the key elements of this free-spirited line. Breezy cotton silk, organza, lush velvet and brocade were the principal fabrics, which came in a refreshing colour palette of pink, blue, mustard and burgundy. The designer duo used their signature style, layering and digital prints to flawlessly play with the notions of femininity and masculinity.
Who: Sailesh SinghaniaWhat: ‘Shaahana – the Royal Glory’ showcased the splendour of the legendary queen Gulnaar. Age-old techniques like jamdani were used on khadi and embellished with complex motifs inspired by modern Japanese art, thus bringing a plethora of cultures and traditions together to create a masterpiece. The colour story was a celebration of summer freshness explored through the union of flawless whites and serene neutral tones, intertwined with opulent gold threads. Benarasi and Kanjeevaram silk saris were also revisited with the purpose of exalting the identity of the fabrics with a modern approach. Shop EXCLUSIVELY on A+CO.
Who: Shivan & Narresh
What: The designer duo’s ‘Patu Series’ featured six new prints – Panthera, Sunderbans, Iconorosh, Fagun, Urvi, and Deccan – with a strong emphasis on the indigenous art forms from the belt of Bengal, Odisha and Andhra Pradesh. Aimed at meeting the lifestyle and travel aspirations of millennials, the collection highlighted the awe-inspiring elements of Bengal’s Pattal chitra art, along with Andhra Pradesh’s Tholu Bommalata leather puppetry. Illustrated effectively through the use of a resplendent colour palette of amber, indigo, slate, ruby, dusk and jade, each piece encapsulated the vibe of an indulgent holiday, a lavish destination wedding, and perhaps even a luxurious honeymoon.
Who: Varun Bahl PretWhat: Bahl presented his maiden ready-to-wear line, ‘The Five Petal Story’, which consisted of pieces that can be worn from day to night. The collection was a mix of unique prints and subtle flourishes of hand-embellishment crafted on fabrics like double-georgette, moss-crepe, silk satin, cotton-silk, hand-woven chanderi, tussar and organza. Kurtas, lehengas, saris, dresses, cardigans, culottes and trousers came down the runway in shades of old rose, pistachio, duck egg blue, ochre, olive, faded mustard, pearl grey and ivory.
Shop Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2019 collections here.