This week saw the end of the larger than life spectacle that was the 12th edition of India Couture Week in New Delhi, which was themed around re-examining modern luxury. Models and muses sashayed down opulent runways sporting the very best of Indian bridal and occasion wear, setting couture trends for the upcoming year.
This India Couture Week saw a marriage between contemporary tailoring and conventional Indian fashion. This amalgamation of heritage and modernity was not only limited to aesthetics, but also bled into tailoring and construction of bridal ensembles. Lighter textiles, recycled materials and embroidery featured in most looks to enable the modern bride to be able to move with ease on her big day. Many collections featured cool contemporary separates like longline jackets for a seamless transition from bridal to occasion wear. Florals remained a mainstay. Adding freshness to the runway, they were used in the form of flower-shaped hemlines and floral resham thread work.
True to his aesthetic, his collection ‘Bloom’ featured traditional silhouettes like lehengas, gowns, peplum blouses, jumpsuits and concept saris with modern construction. These masterpieces were tailored from lightweight fabrics and adorned with intricate resham, jamawar and zari work for weightless and more wearable luxury for the modern bride. Shop Tarun Tahiliani here.
Paris Fashion Week regular Rahul Mishra dazzled with his Monaco and Malhausi-inspired pastel pieces. Dominated by sheer peach and green lehengas and dresses layered with jackets, these modern occasion wear looks were embellished with fine floral thread work and Swarovski crystals.
Falguni Shane Peacock
Falguni and Shane Peacock stayed true to their signature flamboyance this year too. Borrowing from western silhouettes and tailoring, the collection featured capacious lehengas, feather and fur embellishment, and sheer veils on sari gowns in jewel tones. Shop Falguni Shane Peacock here.
Gupta offered wave-inspired sculpted gowns in monotones, metallics, and soft lilac with sheer bodices that will move with their wearer. The futuristic saris and gowns kept in touch with their roots with glistening chikankari and zardozi work. Shop Gaurav Gupta here.
Shyamal and Bhumika
Shyamal and Bhumika took inspiration from art but not the modern kind. Renaissance frescoes and architectural design were represented in contemporary lehengas and saris featuring asymmetric hemlines, tulle details, off the shoulder blouses with old-world sleeves. Gold floral thread work complemented each look.
ICW opener Amit Aggarwal made a case for modern art as bridal wear with his structured yet fluid looks. Aggarwal made use of recycled polymer stripe along with tulle, organza, and glitter to create edgy saris with double drapes and saris gowns with elaborate trails and plunging necklines. His glittering green sari with a thigh-high slit was one of the highlights.